Crimp vs open hand. There are probably some tutorials on this board.
- Crimp vs open hand. I just made a couple of leaders yesterday and I used the small sized opening. Advanced climbers can do a second set for each half- and open-crimp grips, plus one or two additional sets that target one- and/or two-finger pockets. There are three basic types: the open crimp, the full crimp, and the three-finger grip. Dec 17, 2021 · Open-hand is useful due to the common nature of hitting a hold with an open hand. The pinky may be slightly straighter (because it’s shorter) and slightly gripping I crimp most of the time and haven’t been injured yet. The aluminum oval crimps are only for Mono or fluorocarbon and shape the plastic line inside the crimp differently. Properly crimped lines will always out test perfect knots. 8 / 40-60lb 1. Jan 9, 2017 · When you crimp the sleeve the sleeve will elongate. I still dont really full crimp at all. If you had a weakness at open hand it maybe wouldnt show that much in your board climbing. All three are important in climbing, and if you want to be a good climber, you shouldn't neglect any of them. Four finger half crimp 2. I am significantly stronger half crimping than open hand, mostly because I don't do any open hand hangboarding anymore. Getting your pinky on a hold forces your other fingers to bend more, so a 4 finger open hand is better described as an open crimp, somewhere in between a true open hand and a half crimp. Robustness of physical structures in hand/forearm 3. instagram. 7mm - so pay attention to packaging details Jan 4, 2012 · The sleeve you should use for the 50# titanium wire is either a clinch (terminal tackle side) or an albright (leader to mono side). Intense campus boarding on smaller rungs can also play a role, or simply subjecting your fingers to excessive repetitive forces on the wall. I feel like the first one is better because it’s one crimp but the second is better because it’s covering more surface and has a better flare. The best and most advanced climbers are the ones mastering all three positions. The requested information is condensed into post 12 above. Jul 16, 2019 · Do you know the difference between the crimp grip and the open grip? Are you confused about the difference between them? Be sure to check out the video to find out! Jul 13, 2021 · There are two main types of crimping in rock climbing: the full-crimp grip and half-crimp. Jun 23, 2018 · The open hand grip, while not a power hand move like the crimp, works best on sloping edges where you get lots of skin-to-rock friction. Apr 8, 2025 · Search "full crimp" @SethPierceClimbing Tuesday Tips: Full Crimp vs Open Hand #bouldering Aug 25, 2019 · Continue to do finger rolls and open hand hangboard, especially if they don’t aggravate it to re-establish hand strength. Typically, I’d over crimp and the line stretches and then breaks inside the crimp. Crimping was used allot for me in that industry but we also needed to waterproof the ends of the crimp connectors. This position is stressful on finger tendons, so be careful. The elongation has to go somewhere. The Process of Crimping Crimping involves using a crimping tool to install a connector on a cable. If you can fit two fingers in the pocket, it’s often better to use the middle and ring fingers, rather than a middle and index finger combo. Training open hand is less prone to injury, however, if you train open handed then climb outdoors crimped, your pulleys will not be as strong as the rest of the system so you are more likely to rupture one. Feb 9, 2020 · Description: In this video, we are going to discuss if crimping is safe, we are going to break down the crimp position, and we will discuss proper training and management of crimping. With 55# and higher I use the larger opening. This provides very little contact with the hold and therefore is the weakest way to crimp. half crimp Hey all, After been mostly an indoor climber for 6/7 years, I’ve slowly been transitioning to outdoor bouldering. Jan 19, 2021 · We describe seven of the most commonly used grip positions and the differences between them. Feb 8, 2021 · A climber enjoying bigger holds and finger pockets on limestone will develop their open hand technique. I assume the pinch position has a very active grip position that emulates the half crimp isometric grip. Jul 3, 2022 · What’s an appropriate connection method ? The connection to the lure … barrel swivel … line # test fluorocarbon to lure … Would you use a small aluminum crimp say on 100#-130# test at the lure ? Then use a 3’-4’ section of fluorocarbon with a Nov 17, 2017 · However, in my tests, the crimped connections I'd been doing only averaged about 80-90% of rated strength. Open hand is when your DIP joint (the last one in your finger) isn't experiencing extention beyond being straight. If an open crimp barrel is processed with this type of hand crimping tool, there is a risk that the open crimp barrel will twist in the die during the crimping process. Going to the gym by myself and being surrounded by incredible climbers left and right. 0 / 250-300lb 2. My thinking is aluminum crimps are better for plastic lines. Should a hangboard protocol focus all three equally and alternate styles between sets, or pick a favorite or strongest and focus that, while still trying to hit the others occasionally? I've notice that while my half crimp is weak, I can still maintain it. We also discuss the types of full-crimp. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Transfer to real rock The three grip positions: 1. g. Crimping involves joining two or more pieces of metal by deforming or pressing them together. Using your pinkie engages more muscles in your forearm and back, so this grip type uses less energy and is great for long endurance climbs. One downside is that a lot of energy is wasted cranking to a full crimp every time I hit a small hold. Mar 25, 2013 · I used to open hand all the grips I was using until I (fairly recently) moved to a much smaller set of edges, and now I'm half crimping everything. Learn the differences and when each type of grip is used. So I am trying to slowly train my open hand grip in climbing and on the hangboard. However, open crimping is also the healthiest for your fingers as it causes the least amount of stress on your tendons. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. Beyond that I half-crimp everything. . A final variation is the open crimp (also known as the bird-beak). Can't tell you how many times I've had to fix shotty wiring jobs with crimp connectors in car audio, and almost all of them could be pulled apart, hence why I prefer soldering. Crimping is a fundamental process, particularly in sectors where electrical connections are critical. Aug 15, 2017 · To open crimp, place a single finger pad on the hold and extend the knuckles as far as possible. This has a Sep 21, 2022 · This places incredible pressure on your pulleys and can lead to injury. 7 / 200lb 2. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. In a half crimp, the index, middle, and ring fingers are bent at a 90-degree angle. My question is mainly around grip style; half crimp vs open hand vs 3 finger drag. 2 / 80-100lb 1. However, in my left hand the full crimp actually feels weaker than keeping it half crimp or open Jul 26, 2021 · You’ll start (using a mobile board) on the half crimp position, and you’ll move slowly into an open hand position. I think the defining characteristics of a half crimp is the PIP joints of all four fingers (IMRL) are at roughly 90 degrees, and the DIP joints are either straight or slightly hyperextended. Small handholds requiring the “crimp” position exert the greatest compressive force to finger joint cartilage, compared with the “open hand” position that is more protective. When I think about it I reckon when climbing I would tend to The open crimp puts a very minimal strain on your hand tendons as compared to the other methods and is thus considered the safest and most conservative method to rely on in advanced climbs. Is there any reason I should focus on improving open hand strength? I suppose open hand gives you like another inch of reach and half crimping everything can lead to injury (coincidentally I have mild synovitis in May 10, 2022 · Junior climbers are prone to over-using the 3-finger drag on edges because they feel weak at half-crimping and hence a key coaching tip is to encourage them to use their little finger and maintain a half-crimp. Or you can take me fishing and I'll show you first hand. First, we must understand that there are 3 different crimping positions: 1) the open crimp 2) closed hand crimp and 3) full crimp. Scott Goodwin offers a tried and true technique. Discrepancy in crimp strength open hand vs. This in progresses with the same parameters into Stage 2, now adding a two-finger pocket. pockets) or if I don't need to grip the holds with much force. How small? May 21, 2009 · Going to start crimping leaders for July trip, and have never tried it beforewhat size crimps go with what test mono/ fluorocarbon and what size holes on Sep 11, 2017 · Using crimps on heavy leader is a quick way to make a secure connection for offshore fishing. But training half crimp somehow made pinch projects way easier. Similarly, slopers will help increase your open hand and crimp strength but not the other way around. Leaving the mono tight around the eye of the hook places tremendous strain on the mono. Once you start hyper flexing the DIP to PIP joint you are now half/full crimping which is the type of grip that puts tremendous load on the A2-3 pulley. 8 / 500lb plus *one point is all 200lb mono do not have the same diameter, for example, 200lb Jinkai mono has 1. I assume recent crimp strength gains are due to the smaller edge, but could be due to grip change. For research purposes it is easier to control or quantify force during a static grip compared to dynamic movement where forces are more variable. Half crimp gets you better at crimping (which is used at board climbing quite a lot). Slowly over months 1-2 or so work full crimp back into your climbing regimen very slowly over weeks starting with low to moderate intensity and volume. I do try to train open hand, but on projects crimping is a necessity. The key is testing each leader. Whether you are hangboarding, sport climbing, board climbing or bouldering, the way that you grip a hold says a lot about your climbing. Crimping ain’t easy. Intentionally trying to compensate only produced weaker crimps. The terms "open grip" and "closed grip" are often used when discussing rock climbing. The crimping tool applies pressure to the connector, deforming it around the cable and creating a secure connection. Basic Crimp Techniques and the Components of a Good Connection PIDGTM Terminals and Splices Insulation Restricting PIDGTM Terminal SOLISTRAND Terminals Wire Barrel Functions (Closed and Open) Wire Insulation Variations Wire Preparation Proper Strip Length and Wire Placement Insulation Crimp Adjustment Dot Coding Crimp Inspection Double Action Hand Tool You can hold a crimp in two ways: Full crimp or closed crimp: You have sharp angles in your knuckles and your thumb is tucked over your fingers for extra power. When I first started rock climbing, everything seemed so intimidating. Oct 4, 2018 · The black double barrel crimp was made for wire, but can also be used for mono or fluorocarbon. Learn to make a haywire twist if you want to use the regular single strand wire. Jan 29, 2019 · For looking to start weighted deadhangs, I was thinking of varying between open hand and half crimp (after longer working on increasing half crimp strength)? Or do people tend to focus on just one grip type? Which crimp tool [s] do you recommend to get for general (the above) crimping use? This would include signal terminals (<1mm 2 wire) and ferrules, horseshoe terminals, circular screw terminals and crimp-able power connectors. Jan 29, 2019 · For looking to start weighted deadhangs, I was thinking of varying between open hand and half crimp (after longer working on increasing half crimp strength)? Or do people tend to focus on just one grip type? Aug 28, 2022 · An open hand grip will still increase your crimp strength. May 21, 2009 · Going to start crimping leaders for July trip, and have never tried it beforewhat size crimps go with what test mono/ fluorocarbon and what size holes on Sep 11, 2017 · Using crimps on heavy leader is a quick way to make a secure connection for offshore fishing. Conventional hand crimping pliers close radially. Initially, focus on training the half-crimp and open-crimp grips—one set each. Oct 4, 2017 · What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. Climbing Handholds: Pockets To hold onto a pocket, you essentially use an open hand or crimp but with less fingers. Get seven strand wire if you want to crimp. Initially utilize open-hand grips as this grip puts less force on the PIP and DIP joints, then progress towards utilizing half and full crimps again as you gain more strength in your fingers. Capt. In this blog post, we will discuss the pros and cons of automated crimping versus manual crimping and understanding which approach might be the better fit for different situations. I've since more or less equalized my half crimp and open hand strengths, my numbers are roughly 120 lbs per arm @ 140 lbs body weight. HX4® Open Frame Crimp Tool M22520/5-01 - Qualified to AS22520/5 HX4® accommodates Daniels "Y" series crimp dies Dies sold separately Nov 8, 2023 · Crimping and open hand technique are two approaches climbers use to tackle holds on the rock. In these studies, the subjects were statically holding an open-hand grip and a crimp grip, and the forces were measured. Open grip: Your fingertips are on the edge and the rest of your hand is draped onto the wall. The correlations with route grades were similar. There are probably some tutorials on this board. I had to take a deep breath and Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. Additionally, consider practicing static climbing while you are returning from an injury as dynamic movements place greater load on your fingers. 5 / 125-150lb 1. Jan 4, 2024 · In today's Tips & Tricks episode, we are going to look at different types of crimp grips. 3 / 400lb plus 2. This position is good to train as it aids with injury prevention due to its low-pressure format. Dragging/open handing vs crimping small edgesI don't think this vital topic has been covered sufficiently Comparing notes with Probes earlier this week I can deadhang (2 arms natch) a small edge for 12 secs by dragging/open handing but can only half-crimp it for 4 secs whereas Probes reckoned it would be the other way round for him. The tolerances that produce a perfect 100% crimp are very small. It’s best for most flat and incut edges, especially if the edges are larger, and can even be deployed on slopers and sloping edges. Use chalk on your fingers to increase friction and practice open hand grips to get stronger. If you had a weakness in your half crimp then you can see better improvements by training said weakness. About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket © 2025 Google LLC Training open hand is less prone to injury, however, if you train open handed then climb outdoors crimped, your pulleys will not be as strong as the rest of the system so you are more likely to rupture one. Nov 12, 2016 · CRIMP SLEEVE CHART FOR MONO* & FLUOROCARBON Fishing Line copper / aluminum / brass 0. 33mm compared to my chart above which notes 200lb is 1. While crimping involves grasping onto holds with the fingertips and applying maximum pressure, open hand technique utilizes larger surface areas of the hand to create a grip. com Sep 27, 2024 · The open-hand crimp is used on slightly easier terrain when you want to conserve energy. tiktok. Limit yourself to a maximum of six sets. If this type of hand crimping pliers is used with the closed crimp barrel, the radial closing movement usually has no effect on the quality of the crimp connection. I am pretty sure this is from over full-crimping. Three finger drag 3. Apr 5, 2018 · So for me to do a true open hand, it's essentially the same grip as a three finger pocket. The process can be performed by hand using calibrated crimping tools or automated machines. Specificity 2. The only time I use an open hand grip like 3 finger drag is if I'm forced to (e. Kind of a strange thing that doesn't quite make sense, wanted to see if any others have experienced the same thing. If you do a 3 finger drag, it's possible to have completely straight PIP joints on at least 2 of the fingers. Half-Crimp: This is the strongest hand position, as Gravelle notes in a recent interview. Nov 14, 2022 · The half crimp and full crimp create much more of this friction than open handed positions, so frequent crimping is the obvious culprit. Sep 22, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. So I think open hand should improve crimping strength, but proabably the other way. Most improperly crimped connections will out test knots as well. Mar 13, 2021 · crimp: jinkai g line: 200lb diamond fluorocarbon windon first is a clean single crimp with minimal flare, second is a first crimp closest to the hook and then another overlapped crimp. Also the fastest hangboard gains come from neural Oct 29, 2020 · Does wrapping your thumb over your index finger make you cringe? You may be missing out on some serious pulling With the low-pain criteria, we have Stage 1, which is one set of four reps, seven seconds on and three seconds off, three minutes’ rest between sets, two times per week, and you use different holds—an open hand, a half crimp, and a three-finger pocket. The open grip is often used on sloping holds. Aug 27, 2023 · Discover the difference between an open-hand grip and a crimp in climbing. He explained that there are two main differences between the (full) crimp vs the open hand grip: 1) the actual force vector Due to the shape of your bone and the distance between bone and actual contact area between finger and rock, the full crimp can provide a different force vector thus increasing the possible force exerted on the contact area. How small? In Ned Feehally's beastmaking book. Here is a little writeup from Lattice training suggesting a stricter half crimp is better for benchmarking. Creating the dreaded crotch break. There are three different crimp grips, the open hand grip, half crimp and full crimp grip. Open crimp: involves flexion of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint to 90 Jul 16, 2025 · A crimp in rock climbing is a type of climbing hold that will only fit your finger pads. Which to focus on/and train: 3 finger open hand grip vs 4 finger "semi" open hand grip I have been dealing with a weak ring finger for a couple of years now. It's also, without a doubt, more damaging to your tendons, so you should avoid it as much as possible. I noticed that most of the holds on hard boulders outside are sharp, small, incut crimps which I do very poorly on due to the holds forcing a half/full crimp. Feb 7, 2014 · Closed crimping is, without a doubt, stronger than open hand. open hand since in the former it feels like you're only really using about half the surface. Half-crimp has “the most carryover” into regular climbing. All while having the fingers loaded with appropriate force. Open hand training gets you stronger at open hand grip. As a beginner, stick to half crimps and open crimps, which means leaving your thumb off the hold and creating a 90-degree angle with your hand (half crimp) or fully opening it, hanging by your pads (open crimp). Learn when and how to use each technique to enhance your performance and conquer challenging routes. This balances the load on your fingers much better. Indoor and competition climbers are more often best in the open crimp position. finger strength in a an open grip position and boulder grade. Jan 8, 2024 · Curious what crimp die setting your using for the crimps you listed above. He describes your positions as: open hand half crimp crimp full crimp He also has drag which is even more passive than your open hand position (ie really relying on friction!) Nov 18, 2023 · Instagram: https://www. They both focus on putting all your force on your fingertips while bringing the palm of your hand closer to the wall for even more strength. com/always__climb15/TikTok: https://www. I also feel like the lattice rung has much more of a difference for a strict half-crimp vs. Basically a bit of both really is a good idea i think. Are you looking for the best crimper for open barrel terminals? These are our top pliers kits for crimping those pesky crimp connectors. Jan 4, 2024 · The open-hand crimp, also known as the half crimp, is the most widely used type of crimp grip. May 10, 2022 · Sometimes on very small micro-edges, a full-crimp may provide better traction or on larger edges an open/drag grip may provide a more restful alternative, but generally speaking, the half crimp is the way to go. com/@partner__15?Gmail: xaoxiongclimb15@gmail. In my right dominant hand on tiny holds going into a full crimp feels like my strongest grip. rhf pmr ysomq fsjrx yadkzjkr rmvzdcx jqtutij xuhoxtl yceb swcmfmg