Tube style belay. It is also the simplest, and the most affordable.

Tube style belay. The most popular modern tube-style device is the Black Diamond ATC (in its various forms), which will make up half our test. ) So, I started asking questions. The choice of device depends on climbing style, experience, and personal preference. Dec 1, 2023 · Petzl GriGri – #1 Most Owned Mechanical Device We talked at length in our post on the most owned and wanted tube style belay devices about how Black Diamond has cemented the word ATC into the climbing zeitgeist to mean any tube style belay device, and it’s not uncommon to hear climbers referring to mechanical belay devices as a GriGri. I had to push rope into the NEOX from the brake side to execute a quick feed. Oct 1, 2021 · What Is The Best ATC/Tube Style Device? If you are buying your first belay device we’d recommend either getting an assisted braking device, or a good tube style device with teeth. Mar 7, 2025 · Black Diamond's Big Air XP Package pairs a tube-style belay device with a burly locking carabiner, so it's ready to give your friend a catch. The climber’s brake hand pulls the rope through the tube, creating enough friction to slow or stop the descent. Includes the pros and cons of tubular, assisted braking and Figure 8 devices. It falls in the middle of the pack in terms of weight and diameter of ropes with which it is compatible Dec 5, 2024 · The Giga Jul takes a standard autoblocking tube-style belay device and adds a slider that provides an assisted brake function. Dec 5, 2024 · Some other devices allow more rope to slip through before catching, similar to what happens on a regular tube style belay device. Passive Assisted Braking Devices exaggerate the “grabbing” quality of any aperture or tube style belay device. These are just a few of their iterative prototypes Read on to learn more. While all functions work well, the slider is a bit confusing to learn and isn't intuitive, making this device less suitable for handing to a partner without teaching them to use it first. It costs very little and last a long time. Tube-Style Belay Devices Examples: Black Diamond ATC, Petzl Verso Best For: Beginners and general-purpose climbing How It Works: A simple design that allows rope to pass through a V Early belay devices like the figure-8 plate were soon replaced by the popular tube style belay devices like the Black Diamond ATC. Once you learn to belay and climb a little you’ll feel much safer and more confident in what you’re doing. Below we provide the necessary details for the four styles, including our top picks for each. May 5, 2025 · Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Nov 13, 2007 · The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. Other belay devices can be generally divided into two large groups – figure 8 rappel devices and tube style devices. Lightweight, it can be used for both belaying and rappelling, providing good control over the rope. The ATC and other tube style devices were a significant leap ahead of the classic hip belay, but represent just one point in the continued evolution of rock climbing technology. There are a wide variety of different belay devices on the market today, making it difficult to know which one is the right for you. Some people find them harder to control while lowering versus the mechanical devices that have a separate lowering handle. This device, crafted by Mammut, offers versatility by allowing users to belay a lead climber and independently belay one or two second climbers in an autolocking mode. One thing I have heard is people being fine using a Grigri for top rope belay, but then want to use a tube for lead belay. 00:00 Intro02:07 Tube Style Devices06:00 Assi Tube-style or tubular belay devices Tube-style belay devices are among the most commonly used due to their simplicity and versatility. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Common types of manual devices include the figure-eight, tube-style, and plate devices. Mar 12, 2025 · At the gym, some older, fatter, fuzzy ropes required the tube-style belay device method to overcome the added friction. Nowadays, most climbers prefer assisted braking and tube-style devices, but plates are still popular amongst guides. It generally performs as well as other similar belay devices, with similar amounts of bite when catching lead falls and similar amounts of friction when pulling slack through the device when belaying a follower. Mar 20, 2025 · Manual belay devices are the most traditional type of belay equipment, utilized for their simplicity and reliability. Jan 3, 2024 · Want all climbers to be proficient in tube style belay techniques. The thicker and fuzzier a rope is, the more friction that’s developed through a belay device. Sep 16, 2021 · The DMM Pivot is a tube-style belay device with auto-blocking capabilities. Both require a hand on the brake side of the rope AT ALL TIMES, and all climbers (excluding you bouldering pebble wrestlers) know how to use at least one of these types of belay devices. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. Keep reading to learn about the most iconic belay device– the Black Diamond ATC. Dec 16, 2022 · The Black Diamond ATC is a standard tube-style device. This tube-style device features high-friction grooves to assist with braking and catching, as well as two slots for doubled-rope or two-line rappels. Nov 15, 2016 · Black Diamond worked on the Pilot for 18 months to ensure the geometry was perfect for paying out slack, taking in slack, and lowering. (Some devices have grooves on one side that make braking easier, so ensure the brake strand is coming out on that side. Some examples of assisted brake Understand the differences between all Belaying Devices and Learn how to use any of them Safely and Efficiently. These are the types of belay devices that you're most like to see around the crag. A friend let me use it on a couple of gym days and it was really intuitive and a nice belay device. It is also the simplest, and the most affordable. It doesn’t have to be an Air Traffic Controller, similar belay devices for climbing are common. Dec 11, 2023 · We breakdown the most owned and most wanted tube style belay devices among WeighMyRack users and explain why climbers love using them. Jan 4, 2024 · We break down every type of belay device and talk about where belaying started, and talk about which devices work best for your style of climbing. However, different belay devices offer different geometries which means that they have different sweet spots when Jun 16, 2023 · Now with machined windows, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is lighter than ever before. Mar 9, 2016 · The modern belay device comes in two basic styles: tube & camming. Tube-style devices are “passive” braking devices that rely on the use of a brake hand on the rope, below the device, to arrest This tube style belay device is super simple to use and inexpensive considering its excellent functionality. These belay devices feature 2 slots for your rope, allowing you to belay, rappel, or climb using a two-rope system. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. Oct 23, 2023 · Learn about tube-style and assisted braking devices, how they work, the difference, why gyms have different preferences, and why human error is the most common reason a device fails. 3) The additional loop of aluminum is helpful for setting up a Z-rig rappel, which Aug 6, 2021 · Periodically, belay devices come along that change climbing the way the iPhone changed cell phones. They are a cheaper and lighter version of the mechanical style above. I second the pilot for an alternate belay device aside from a tube/atc. ATC - the standard tube style belay device. When used correctly, they will both allow for a belayer to catch a fall, and the climber to be caught and lowered. Some climbers even believe that assisted-braking devices are somehow less safe than regular tube style devices. Wide selection of tube-style climbing descenders at the best price with iconic models like the Reverso and Grigri from Petzl or the ATC from Black Diamond. and learn how to lead belay using a tube-style belay device also known as an ATC. ATC-XP - If you put the brake side of the rope through the teeth, you get some extra friction, if you put it through the non-teeth side, you get the same friction as an ATC. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. Feel the only reason brake assist devices exist is because of a lack of proper training. Me being me, I've acquired quite a bit of these things over the years a What is belaying? Where can I learn to belay? Belay commands How to top-rope belay Belaying with an ATC or other tube-style device How to lower with an ATC Belaying with a Gri-gri or other assisted-braking device How to lower with a Gri-Gri What is belaying? Whenever you climb on a rope, someone has to hold the other end to catch you if you fall. I own the Jul2 so that I have it as a backup for teaching people who are new, or to ask someone who prefers a tube style device to give me a belay with an assisted braking device. Attached to the harness, this ‘guide tube’ belay device can be also used to belay from the ground or rappel from above like any other tube device, which makes it one of the more versatile pieces of kit climbers can carry Dec 15, 2021 · Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. It feeds slack with ease, securely catches lead falls, and securely auto-blocks when belaying a follower from above on multi-pitch routes. They’re lightweight and versatile but don’t have assisted braking. Gym Climber caught up with Jon Lachelt, owner and general manager of Ascent Studio Climbing and Feb 21, 2020 · Use of the old-school tube-style belay technique is not recommended (where you bring the brake rope above and parallel with the lead side to take in or give out slack). To belay with a tube-style, or tubular device, simply pinch a small section of rope, feed the bend of it through one of the holes, and clip a locking carabiner through the loop that appears on the other side. The ATC XP features internal grooves to boost friction, helping to relieve some pressure from our brake hand, and two slots for use with twin and half ropes. Jun 19, 2023 · Belayers around the world also began to experiment with new belay tools that redirected the braking position 180 degrees—the most common early example was the Sticht plate, but the same principle applies to today’s tube-style devices. These are your classic, no-frills belay devices that rely on the friction between the rope and the device itself to control the speed of the rope. 5mm) strengthens its case for use with twin or half ropes. Was the GriGri in the dog house because of its high cost? Did rappelling on a single strand give climbers the creeps? Or were there things the ATC could do that the GriGri couldn’t? What is the difference between a tube-style device and an assisted braking belay device? Assisted braking devices are classified as either mechanical or geometric and aid in safe belaying by providing extra stopping force via the geometry of the device or a mechanism that grabs the rope in the event of the belayer losing control of the brake strand of the rope. Jul 11, 2012 · Fusion Climb Neo Sat Aluminum Tube Belay Device Gold - The Neo-Sat Belay Device is a modified "tube" style belay device. Tubular Style Belay Device The classic. 5 - 10. Sep 14, 2020 · – Best Beginner Tube Style Belay Device – Black Diamond ATC Guide – Cheapest Beginner Belay Device Set – Black Diamond ATC XP Package Why Get A Beginner Belay Device? As you learn climbing it will initially feel very unsafe. 2) The additional loops of aluminum functions as an effective heat sink, allowing this device to run cooler than comparable tube-style devices. Jul 16, 2014 · *Editor’s Note: This setup is appropriate for standard auto-blocking tube-style belay devices, but there are several unique models on the market that require their own rigging method. They work by generating friction on the rope through their tubular shape. I am referring to the hand movements. Dec 13, 2023 · (Black Diamond’s ATC—or “Air Traffic Controller”—is their model of the classic tube-style belay device. It's an ideal device for belaying both leaders and top-ropers, either sport or Jun 1, 2025 · The Origin and History of Belay Devices - page 2 - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. This is one reason for the popularity of the active assisted devices, or passive assisted devices that use much the same motion to belay, but remove much of the effort of holding a hanging climber in place. Feb 15, 2024 · Tube Devices with Guide Mode Guides and multi-pitch climbers are the main users of this feature and they tend to prefer to carry a tube style device with guide mode. The 3 Main Types of Belay Devices 1. This is a crusty take. Jan 17, 2020 · Recently, several gyms have banned the use of standard tube-style belay devices for lead climbing. This method works with any tube style belay devic… Jan 9, 2024 · We'll explore "How to Belay: The Ultimate Guide to Belaying" in this extensive guide, with a particular emphasis on the tube-style device. Sep 21, 2023 · Manual tube-style belay devices in guide mode are considered “auto-blocking” because they will automatically pinch the climbing rope in case the follower falls. In this article I aim to clear up the confusion by debunking the argument against assisted-braking devices and describing a few common bad belay habits (the real problem) that you should try to avoid when using an assisted-braking device. Nov 6, 2022 · The tube-style device, assisted braking devices, and other belay devices have changed the face of what it means to belay. We recommend the Black Diamond ATC Guide as the best manual belay Jan 3, 2024 · The ATC climbing device, which stands for Air Traffic Control, is a tube-style belay device, usually with two holes and a plastic-wrapped loop of braided wire connected to the underside. Dec 5, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. Feb 22, 2025 · Hardwearing tube-style belay device for big walls and alpine routes Aluminum housing delivers lightweight durability Steel inserts increase longevity and heat resistance V-shaped grooves help create more friction when braking Auto-locking guide mode accommodates two climbers Appropriate for rope diameters 7. Feb 29, 2024 · This shape pairs especially well with tube belay devices with 2 ropes slots (a popular belay device style for outdoor climbing). There are no moving parts or levers to operate, making it a user-friendly intro to the world of assisted braking belay devices. In typical BD style they developed a variety of iterations before landing on the final design, and then subjected that final design to tons of testing to ensure it works in almost every conceivable condition. In the late 1980s, Petzl Oct 8, 2018 · The Petzl VERSO is an ultra-light and affordable tube-style belay device. ) Jun 28, 2018 · Used in conjunction with a climbing rope, common dynamic belays use tube-style devices like the Petzl Verso and Omega Pacific SBG II. A tube style device is considered essential for outdoor climbing, particularly when rappelling / multi-pitch climbing. What makes the ATC-Guide unique is the addition of two loops of aluminum. Nov 17, 2023 · There are quite a few benefits to the ATC belay device and other tube-style belay devices, and for much of climbing history, these were the primary devices used for belaying, lowering, or rappelling. Jul 20, 2025 · The Mammut Wall Alpine Belay is a lightweight, tube-style belay device designed specifically for alpine climbing, multi-pitch routes, and expeditions. Crafted from high-density aircraft-grade aluminum, the ARC is engineered to keep your rope running smoothly through the device for quick payouts and long rappels. . There are other assisted tube style devices but IMO the megajul is the best because of its size/weight and its functions (assisted brake, ability to rap with two strands or belay on half ropes). This is a fundamental skill needed to become an independent outdoor climber and the ATC Feb 22, 2020 · Tube style devices require a great deal of hand strength to hold the weight of the climber, which can be fatiguing. Its tube style design allows for smooth and precise movements, making it a valuable tool for those engaging in challenging outdoor sports activities. Feb 22, 2020 · But selecting one of the modern tubular or assisted style belay devices is a great place to start. 3 days ago · We break down the best belay devices on the market, from assisted-braking standouts like Petzl’s ubiquitous Grigri to simple and reliable tube-style options Tube-Style Belay Devices How they work: Tube-style devices like the Black Diamond ATC or Petzl Reverso are very similar to the original belay device which was simply a metal plate with two holes in it. The Sticht Plate was one. Aug 5, 2024 · The Redirected Clip-Back Lower provides a smooth lower and the rope will stay twist free if you keep the rope running inline with the belay device. Named after its designer Fritz Sticht, the device was a precursor of the tube-style belay devices we still use today. Nov 14, 2024 · Belay Devices: Types and Functions Belay devices play a pivotal role in climbing, aiding in rope management and improving safety. , ATC or Reverso), thread a bight of the rope through either slot in the device. The performance of a belay device is heavily influenced by the diameter and condition of the climbing rope used. May 13, 2025 · Type of Belay Device: Active assisted breaking Lead Belay Mode?: No Guarantee: 3 years First Impressions If you’ve spent your entire climbing career until this point only using a tube-style belay device, like the Black Diamond ATC or Petzl Reverso, the first thing you’ll notice is that the GriGri is large – really large. That just seems ass-backwards to me. Tube-Style Devices: The Classic ATC First up, we have the trusty tube-style devices, with the Air Traffic Controller (ATC) leading the pack. Apr 28, 2025 · With a tube-style belay device (e. Here's a breakdown of the main types of belay devices and their features: Types of Belay Devices Tube-Style (ATC): named after Black Diamond's Air Traffic Controller (ATC), these devices are versatile and commonly used. A running belay is a variant of the dynamic belay in which the top anchor point is attached to a horizontal cable using a trolley. But not all climbers know Feb 21, 2020 · The Petzl Reverso is a tube-style belay device with auto-block capability. May 19, 2022 · A preferred multi-pitch tube style belay devices also includes a guide mode feature which is an attachment point so they can be used to belay from above at the anchor. Each of these devices operates on the principle of friction, which helps control the rope’s movement during a climb. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri is an active assisted-braking device that performs well in every belaying and lowering task, earning our highest honor as the best belay device on the market. The DMM Wales Bug ATC Tube Style Belay Device is a vintage piece of equipment designed for climbing and caving enthusiasts. Ultimately I think it’s valuable to learn and practice with both, but I think the Jul2 is a better place to start! (Also cheaper) Learn how to choose the best belay devices for climbing, including key factors for selecting belay equipment and climbing belay devices to ensure safety and performance. Oct 23, 2023 · Types of Belay Devices For the purpose of this article, the only two categories of belay devices that will be discussed are tube-style devices and assisted braking devices (ABDs). With its Jul 6, 2024 · I use these things every day I go out rock climbing, ice climbing, and in the alpine. In this respect it is very much like its predecessor, the BD ATC-XP, and innumerable other similar devices. A Tubular Belay device Also called a "tube", this type of device generally has a tubular or rectangular shape. Final Thoughts You may never get a solid answer regarding Grigri vs. May 4, 2012 · Tube-style devices may have slots for one or two ropes; double-slotted devices can be used to belay two climbers and perform double-rope rappels. This article covers everything from setup to lowering the climber, so it's perfect for beginners and experienced climbers alike. It's optimized for standard belay techniques with versatility for single-pitch, multi-pitch, and mountaineering. As a result, this is generally the most common type of belay device Feb 21, 2020 · The Petzl Verso is a classic tube-style manual belay device with additional friction grooves on one side and is the lightest device in our review. Sep 24, 2019 · Optimal Single Rope Diameter: An assortment of tube style belay devices. It is an evolution of the Sticht plate's concept by creating more surface area to dissipate heat and the ability to create sharper angles which creates a stronger degree of friction which has greater stopping power. com Dec 16, 2022 · After the forefathers of climbing stopped hip belaying, they moved on to belaying with plate-style belay devices. Fast delivery. The “grabbing” effect is so severe, it effectively brakes the rope, providing the belayer with a backup. They consist of a simple tube with slots for the rope. ATC and which is objectively better. Jan 15, 2018 · It was intuitive: The ATC Pilot works in much the same way that a standard tube-style belay device does, with the added benefit of assisted braking. Classic (or “Tube-Style”) Belay Devices These are the most common — you’ll see them at the gym, on sport routes, and in multi-pitch climbs. - A slightly larger opening allows easier setup when you "bite" the rope and smoother belay. FWIW I use my grigri for almost everything and I usually don't carry a second device. The lack of rope slip didn't feel too significant while falling or while catching a fall because rope stretch and attentive belaying provide a soft enough catch. Each of these two belay devices have its own principle on which they operate, and the designs of a many of other belay devices are usually variations on theme set by them. An example of a tube-style device. Also, it is much heavier than other autoblocking devices, making it less suitable Dec 22, 2022 · With only one rope, added safety can be achieved by incorporating an assisted braking tube-style device, like the Black Diamond Pilot, without sacrificing a smooth belay. Jun 9, 2023 · Discover the pros and cons of the three major types of belay devices for rock climbing: tube-style, assisted braking, and figure 8 devices. g. Join StoneMan Climbing Co. Made by the reputable brand DMM, this belay device offers reliable and secure support for outdoor adventures. Note that all normal belay attention/precautions apply, but just that there is now a backup to normal belay. Tube-style belay devices, Camp USA, Black Diamond, and Petzl Just a few holes in a piece of metal While the Munter hitch represented a definite improvement over older belay techniques, it does have a drawback; it is awkward to use when belaying off a harness. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Tube-style Belay Devices: These popular devices, such as the ATC (Air Traffic Controller), use friction to control the rope. Jan 4, 2024 · We break down every type of belay device and talk about where belaying started, and talk about which devices work best for your style of climbing. Nov 20, 2023 · Tube-style belay devices are typically the most affordable option available to new climbers. Many are made with wide gate openings and round stock that makes feeding rope while belaying or rappelling smoother and easier to manage. In recent years, however, climbing brands have invented more advanced and specified belay rappel devices. I will always bring a grigri OR a megajul. 5mm Item #MAMU58Z May 28, 2024 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Suitable for all Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. The ATC’s lightweight and minimalist design relies on two slots for belaying or rappelling with two ropes. Jul 6, 2023 · They can provide smooth lowers, multi-functionality, and reliable braking, though. Tube-style or tubular belay devices Tube-style belay devices are among the most commonly used due to their simplicity and versatility. Its superior performance with skinnier ropes (down to 7. Apr 24, 2024 · Tube-style, Assisted Braking Belay Devices: These consist of a tube-shaped device through which the rope is threaded. Featuring V-shaped slots on the brake side of the device and ARC technology, the VERSO provides increased control on a wide variety of rope diameters. 3 days ago · To keep it simple, we sort belay devices into four main categories: tube, auto-blocking tube, assisted braking, and plate. I want this love of learning in my partners. Once you get the hang of it, lead belay is so much easier with a Grigri ( you still have to pay attention. Fortunately, ABDs are becoming more affordable with the advent of new technology If you are looking for a good ATC style belay device, this is it: Cypher ARC Rappel and Belay Device. Tube-style devices require complete manual braking from the belayer. hterk dlst qocrhidi spicbq rrw hfuopjh kqxqd nozg haeb ytty