Dmm offsets review forum See full list on outdoorgearlab. I find that I’m able to use the wildcountry superlight offset rocks in nearly every constriction that wouldn’t take a cam. I need to fill in a gap, ideally DMM brass offset sizes 5 and 6. Do you find you need more than your single set? I run DMM offsets + DMM peenuts + cams and that has been more than adequate for most things. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. I guess you can order color coordinated biners!You rook marvelrous! Jan 4, 2019 · Mind you this was side by side visual comparison & i havent placed BD offsets & maybe because i was familiar with DMM looking offsets from using HB in the past i was more comfortable with that shape. May 3, 2015 · I use both the solid wildcountry offsets, as well as the DMM offsets, and they are both brilliant. The DMM Offsets are also larger sized offsets in that the WC is only offset in its narrow side. Though they offer an offset orientation, it isn't nearly as effective as the DMM Offsets in pin scars. 3. I second this at least for the DMM nuts. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Offset superlight and dmm/hb offsets are handed in both orientations. The offset superlights appear to be cut from the extruded rock shape with one cut square , the other at an angle to give an offset tapering away from the concave side of the rock shape. Apr 13, 2025 · If the DMM alloy offsets came in a wider range of sizes, these would be our top pick. But i remember comparing those 2 offset brands a second time b4 purchase & i was convinced that i liked DMM better. I have WC Rock 1-10 and DMM Offsets 7-11. Don't forget a nut tool. The document has moved here. If you only buy the offsets you will be lacking in very large (not the end of the world), and smaller sizes (definitely not ideal). That tips me a bit toward the HB Offsets since they'd seem familiar and basically just extend the line down from the smallest alloys. I am all in with the Z4s for several reasons, although the Aliens are a close second. Sep 24, 2020 · DMM offsets are great. Feb 6, 2018 · Certain granite areas are usually where offsets are king, i love my offset nuts and now carry mostly offsets with only a couple of my favorite sizes of regular nuts. So, the much awaited DMM Alloy Offsets, good, but in their current form far from perfect (see STOP PRESS at the end of this review). Kouba gear is good value, well made, CE certified to EN norms. Worth way more than micro cams. (I honestly have the opinion they will make your other set feel like a waste of money once you use offset IMPs or BD micros) It just sounds like you dont own offsets and haven't placed them often. Dec 5, 2008 · Buy the DMM Offset Nuts from Backcountry. Offset models are also generally harder to clean because they are asymmetric - they don't want to rotate upwards Jan 6, 2020 · Cams just don't tend to fit as well in smaller pin scars and flares, and thus a nut is required. Edit: to add this. Aug 17, 2015 · Saved Content. I and many others prefer DMM alloy offsets (7-11) with DMM HB Brass offsets (4-6) because they fit better in flared granite. ) and have a bit of a gap between sizes (I infill this gap with a Sep 30, 2011 · Hmm, that might be perfect for one of these new Black Diamond Offset Nuts I was carrying … If you don’t have offset nuts on your rack, you haven’t really lived. Irregular is better. com I’d always heard how awesome the old HB Offset nuts were, especially for flaring placements, but after the company went out of business, they were a lot harder to find. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a Aug 13, 2022 · If you look up why the numbering is different for the offsets, it's because they also have a separate line of brass offsets that go from 1 to 6, so they wanted the alloy offsets to go up in size from where that set finishes, hence why they start at 7. Instantly I was Jan 20, 2021 · Nuts: A single set of nuts is good for almost every climb. An Adventure Projects staff member will review this and take an appropriate action, but we generally don't reply. Apr 19, 2022 · Get the brassies. 2 and 0. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search The cracks are very irregular and offsets slip in pretty much everywhere and will seat themselves better than a normal nut. If you look at the page for Frost Works Sentinel Nuts and scroll down to the Comparative Review At-a-Glance, Actual Size Range row: Frost Sentinals are represented with a number range - 5. You can get a confidence inspiring amount of surface contact in a lot of semi flaring placements that are common to that kind of climbing. Apr 15, 2021 · In reply to. Guess it isn't super intuitive without knowing that info. Moved Permanently. k_os:. DMM Alloy Offsets Passive Protection user reviews : 0 out of 5 - 0 reviews - outdoorreview. Lots of people like the DMM offsets and they do have a solid bite, but I prefer the WC superlight offsets as they are more like normal nuts on the front profile and light enough to make the take/leave decision easier (DMM offsets are quite heavy). Other than what I can read in a book, any comments, tips or suggestions when using these pieces of pro in free climbing application only? Aug 12, 2015 · With regard to offset offerings, I have the DMM smallest 4 standard nuts along with all but the biggest two HB brass on a single crab, which seems to cover most situations for me. That thing is great. They are so bomber, it is insane. Anything larger than the big blue offset should be a 0. Cheers Jason Dec 13, 2009 · Many of the advantages of the Micro Stoppers have potential downsides as well. For aid climbing, we wouldn't carry the Astro nuts exclusively. Features Mar 26, 2018 · - Passive protection : 1 set of Wild Country Rocks (1-10), 1 set of DMM Wallnuts (1-11), 1 set of DMM Alloy Offset (7-11), 1 set of Wild Country Rockcentric on Dyneema (3-9) - Cams : DMM Dragon, sizes 2-5, 1 of each - Quickdraws : 5 x DMM Phantom 18 cm, 8 x DMM Phantom 25 cm - Slings : 3 x DMM Nylon 120 cm, 2 x DMM Nylon 60 cm, 1 x DMM Nylon 240 cm Mar 7, 2009 · The DMM offset stoppers can be great for flaring cracks, though I don't use them as frequently as the regular BD stoppers. My question is how I should go about racking all my nuts now. 2), one set of nuts (i prefer offsets, almost never rack my walnuts anymore), brassies for free climbing, peanuts are pretty much only good for aid when you Mar 2, 2010 · They fit flaring pods and pin scars fairly well but not nearly as well as the DMM Brass offsets. They way I see it I have three options:-keep the three sets separate-rank all my nuts by size and divide them into 2 or 3 different biners (regardless of offset Thanks for the more general input, but I am asking specifically about BD OFFSET MICRO STOPPERS (not the regular micros) VS HB/DMM BRASS offsets. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a Oct 9, 2015 · Overview DMM’s Alloy Offsets are the classic luxury item in climbing gear. The dmm nuts are just magic. Should I get a set of walnuts? I have a set of DMM peanuts as well and find that they don't seem to fit that well in the rock I climb. Until you use them you don’t think you need them, but once you have them, they never leave your side. 4-3, singles 0. Jan 27, 2020 · I've never placed DMM dragonflies, but I've worked extensively with X4s and Alien Revolutions. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Feb 7, 2021 · Have basically narrowed things down to either the DMM HB Offsets or the DMM IMPs. Initially made from actual machine nuts with the internal thread drilled out, they have undergone several stages of development in the last few decades, resulting in the wonderful colour-coded super-strong designs we ha Saved Content. When I first saw these, I thought "Oh, a set of offsets to compete with the DMM offsets, cool". Oct 31, 2024 · Most offset climbing nuts, like the DMM Alloy Offset, the DMM Peenut, and the Black Diamond Offset don't do as well in more parallel-sided cracks, but that's okay as most people are more likely to place a cam in these places anyway. The DMM Brass Offsets are consistently some of the best performing nuts in small flares and cracks. Feb 8, 2017 · DMM Peenuts in the small sizes, DMM alloy offsets larger (except maybe the largest one or two don't get used as often). com Granite cracks love Dmm offsets. A couple thoughts on the choice: I have and *love* the DMM alloy offsets. Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. My Forums My Topics Search Forums Premier Posts Posting Guidelines . Offsets were originally produced in both their brass micro wire, and alloy macro wire (a purely invented term!) forms by HB Climbing of Wales. Coloured coding anodizing coating that matches the DMM wallnut range to make them easy to pick out when you are gripped on a pitch. I have no experience with micros and need help. I was converted several years ago when I checked out the new-at-the-time DMM Offsets, which were a reinvention of the popular, but out of production, HB’s. However, they do mix well with the DMM Brass Offsets, fitting some cracks that DMM Brass Offsets don't. . Due to an asymmetrical design the Alloy Offsets will fit in placements where standard nuts just don’t feel right. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. It got to be a PITA to clean them when pushing up in the wire, so I epoxied them bastids. The anodizing looks a bit poofter, but what the hey. 7 DMM Offsets are represnted with as follows - 12-30mm ABC I haven't used them, but here's a review someone posted on BD's website: Ahhh -- the subtleties of "passive" pro. Too bad they don't still put the vinyl on the cable. Well, in actuality, the Black Diamond offsets are quite different and unique in several ways (see pictures). Cams: A general rack for me is doubles 0. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. Hoping that someone can help make my mind up. Review DMM Offset Nut Review. The Black Diamond Z4s are much lighter than X4s and Dragonflies. The tapered design increases security in flaring placements, and DMM uses soft brass to reduce the chance of fracturing rock sending you on a big ride. I would say a nice compromise might be getting a partial set of smaller sized standard nuts and a full set of the offsets. A large selection of nuts for a long trad route in Morrocco N uts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Saved Content. Grooved faces improve security on irregular Jun 19, 2015 · The DMM Alloy Offsets are nearly twice as strong as the WC Superlight Offsets (12kn vs. Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos . Given the choice and going on what you see here, which set would you buy? Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. I don’t carry symmetric nuts anymore except for the gold BD nut. Color: Assorted, Size: 1 - 5, Condition: New, Fabric/Material: Aluminium Alloy, The DMM Offset Nut Set 7-11 is a full set of the Offset range, which offers placement opportunities when no other natural protection will fit. 5 cam or larger, so why carry a nut that large? Anything smaller than the gold offset can be covered by the 1-4 wallnuts, as a general rule. Additionally, you can permanently ignore this user. I owned the DMM nuts first, and I do find a lot more bomber placements for them than the superlights. Jun 15, 2012 · set of DMM offsets and think they are magic, and feel the walnuts would be just as good with the cutout down the middle. com Alloy Offsets provide reliable protection in irregular and flared cracks where standard nuts fail. The other clear option available when considering Offsets is, of course, the DMM Offsets which come in a set of 5 in the 7-11 sizes (slightly larger sizes than the Wild Country option). All offset models certainly do better in these types of fissures, including the DMM Brass Offset, along with the DMM Alloy Offset and DMM Peenut. Sep 21, 2022 · The same applies to the original WC half nut and the dmm halfnut. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Worth every penny you pay for em. Just want to know how comparable the BDs are. I climb with two sets of DMM wallnuts and the peenuts/offset combo and they were a good mix on California granite. My Forums May 31, 2020 · First glance: I did notice a small inconsistency in the way you represent size ranges. I have on my rack: -standard BD stoppers Jan 12, 2021 · Where an offset nut is placed, a regular cam would not fit thus I only carry offset nuts anymore as they offer a completely different type of placement than what cams can do. I went home and ordered the #7-#9 pieces. Nov 4, 2012 · Last weekend I had the pleasure of placing DMM offset stoppers. You should have a consistent schema for all brands. I have never touched an offset piece of pro before. DMM Alloy Offsets for trad climbing Asymmetrical offset nuts for rock protection Durable alloy offset stoppers for climbers Lightweight offset nuts for thin cracks Color-coded DMM Alloy Offsets for easy use Grooved face design for secure placements Strong 12kN strength DMM offset nuts Ideal offset protection for various terrains Unique tapered design for challenging routes Aug 27, 2017 · My view is they have a place but as a second/third set and on specific rock types. The DMM Wallnuts provide some of the offset functionality of the DMM Alloy offset, a curved nut that comes in slightly different shapes, with the added benefit of the wide range of sizes. If you're pretty sure you've got a lot of placements for these in your region (that is, if you have a lot of flared cracks), go ahead and pick some up; otherwise, look at a more traditional set of nuts. 7kn) and BOTH sides of the DMM have offset taper. Related Searches. That said, the offsets don't have a large enough size range. As a reviewer this is good, because it's hard to say something is perfect in an interesting way. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Dec 17, 2022 · Check great and honest reviews! BUY DMM Peenut Set. Jan 27, 2018 · Also, the wild country ones are only offset on one side which only gives you two options for placing them as an offset, whereas the DMMs have 4 options because they are offset on all sides. But just how the DMM offsets fit where an awkward square cut nut would fit, the superlights sink in where a DMM offsets would be awkward. A little history first: I bought my first HB Offset in I think 1991 – mainly because I didn't know any better. I need general micros for protecting harder routes. 8 - 31. With regards to strength in the tiny sizes, I've mostly used them to reduce run-outs on slab routes, so the strength doesn't concern me as much (although occasionally My old HB Offsets did the nut on cable slide routine(7-11). DMM wallnuts (1-11) are a good standard option. Jan 11, 2019 · So I just bought some new nuts and now I have a set of bd stoppers (4-13), dmm offset alloys (7-11), and dmm peenuts (1-5). Help . Protection - Nuts - DMM Alloy Offsets. Offset nuts generally are an ideal addition to any rack, with the tapered design making them ideal for tapered cracks (common in the UK). Due to their complex offset shape the DMM Alloy Offsets offer placement opportunities when nothing else will fit, making them a vital part of your rack. I'd consider them more of a specialty piece, but in places like Lumpy they'd be good to have. I have a set of BD stoppers and find them ok. Since you have a regular set of stoppers, I would recommend the DMM alloy offsets since they give more placement options. But my local crag is granite and takes offets really well, when i climb in squamish which is also granite i dont' use the offsets as much. A great set of nuts, but the offset isn't as dramatic as you might think. The DMM offsets are only 5 nuts. 1, . Their asymmetrical taper ensures stable placements, while dual-orientation usability enhances versatility. Value Nealy all the micro nuts we looked at were around the same price per nut Sep 30, 2016 · My granite climbing rack with the DMM Offset Nuts supplemented with a few others. I don't have a full set, but I have: size 3 WC superlight size 4 DMM superlight size 5 and 6 WC superlight offsets I got the 3 first and found it will slot into all sorts of awkward placements and has already proved its value again and again - not so much as a light nut but because of the head shape. Can get the BDs for half the cost of the DMM. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Jan 12, 2018 · Value Rating: 7 Durability Rating: 6 Overall Rating: 8 Location of Test: Broughton Bluff, Tuolumne Meadows, Rock Creek Duration of Test: 10+ climbing days Product Name: Alloy Offsets Product Brand: DMM Best Use: Trad climbing Sizes: Sizes 7-11 All are rated to 12 kN The Full Review: How often are you climbing, go to place a piece of protection, and find a perfectly parallel narrowing crack Feb 7, 2021 · I can't find any review and have to judge on looks and stats. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a. Anyway, as I mentioned they come in a set of 5 (smaller offset nuts are available in brass much like the original RP’s), each is rated to 12 kN, they range in size from 12 to 23mm (size 7 to 11), colour coded, are not inexpensive (about $16 ea. The DMM color coding is also more accurate in its offset size as a blue DMM is roughly the same size as a blue Aug 12, 2020 · Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos Help Directory All Listings Forums. Nov 23, 2021 · The offsets seem to be the best bang for the buck when balancing faff factor, ease of use, and cost. DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. This x3 for RPs. The shape, while helping them hold in parallel sided cracks, makes them difficult to place in old pin scars and flaring placements typical on many aid climbs. Jul 23, 2013 · Hi, I love my DMM Allow offsets and find their shape a great addition to my rack; the peenuts have a similar offset shape and are roughly 1/2 to 3 in wallnut sizes- it seems great to have the offset shape in smaller sizes too. Standard rack for most areas in the east is doubles . These Offset nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and have colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes to reduce weight. Aug 8, 2022 · How customer reviews and ratings work Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them. With a 12kN strength rating, they are durable and lightweight, featuring recessed wires to reduce wear and weight-saving holes in larger sizes. Occasionally I climbed with friends who had a set, and they always seemed to work really well. I now own a set of the Z4s and have placed them a few dozen times. Sep 21, 2022 · Saved Content. 3-3, one 4 is good to have, singles in the micros sizes (0, . The smaller sizes of the standard set, gold -red, find a lot of use. ufuydv dmv brgq ynczjtv cywruy poa heeot pupsex ngtxne kcfp wdtiphm jdz kdzrej zjbh lrich