Shoulder length sling climbing reddit height Also take all your 60cm slings also known as "double length slings" and make alpine draws with them and bring those in lieu of regular draws. keeps them from snagging the gear in the bag or making huge rat's nests. For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). I say nylon because it has some elasticity if you accidentally shock load it. Or, the same solutions- a sling and 2 draws. It will be harder to equalize the anchor if the bolts are at different heights. Lengths: 12" (25. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. 5 can vary from 0. That being said, if there was a swinging fall potential, I'd take the time to make a sliding x with one of my shoulder length slings. 3 to 0. A. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. For long, traversing routes I will take the whole kit and kaboodle. g. I normally bring 6-8 alpine draws for clipping bolts, nuts and other protection that requires two carabiners. I was fully picturing a 120cm in my head. X-Small - 14-15" Small - 15-17" Medium- 17-20" Large- 19-21" X-Large - 21+" (These vary based on bag so it's an approximation) Check out the Gregory Icarus or Wander series if you don't like the Tarn. On the back loops I keep 6-8 alpine draws (single length) and then 2-3 double lengths over my shoulder with a biner clipped on them. Sterling Dyneema Sewn Runner: 24″ (60cm) Cordelette. Slings. 240cm is plenty of 11 votes, 390 comments. 812 votes, 44 comments. On here sits all the extra stuff. Edit: ignore me, my bad. alpine draw. Girth hitched through waist and leg loop points so my belay loop stays open. -quad length sling. Whether or not you want to do climbing-specific training during down time depends on your psyche, what worked for me was mixing it up with other activities I enjoy until I felt good enough to climb harder again. Height doesn't matter, as it's all about torso length (and that can vary a ton on people). When I give up on winter climbing for the season, I'll move the summer gear to the main sling and the ice-screws to the off-season sling. Alpines are only for nuts and although It happens I hate extending them because putting them back, I think is a pain. When cleaning shoulder/double-shoulder length slings, always sling them the same way (over the same shoulder) in order to make the transition smoother without a clusterfuck of slings to sort out. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. I strap my microtrax to two shoulder-length slings slung bandolier style on opposite shoulder, and attach to a short line to my belay loop. to a locker on each bolt and tie a BFK. Alpine draws are made with single length slings (also called shoulder length). Sewn draws are ok for sport but I find their extra stiffness a drawback with trad gear, in addition to their reduced versatility. Extra long extension or anchors. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. I returned to the climbing gym on September 7th where I did some mellow traversing and climbed some V0s On the 16h I climbed some V3s On the 23rd I did a handstand and a cartwheel I'm still being careful with my repaired shoulder and taking care not to do anything aggressive with it. Personal preference, I guess. The home of Climbing on reddit. If there is not good beta for the route than bring 1 draw for every 5m on the longest pitch plus a few extras. Actually, it's on two slings - one for winter-usable gear (nuts, ice screws, hexes, screwgates, slings, prusiks, slingdraws, long quickdraws) and one for summer-only gear (cams, nut key, short quickdraws). And yes we are scared of falling. He suggested buying Alpine Quickdraws as opposed to regular quickdraws if I will eventually get into trad climbing. I'm planning to buy some pro (a mix of cams and… For single length slings (2'), you can either put them over one shoulder (with or w/o 1 carabiner each), or double them up on 2 carabiners each: i. And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. Moving fast is key and if you're futzing around with fancy anchors you'll be overnighting. What do I need for my trip in 2 weeks time? I refused to ever do surgery and have generally been 1000% times more careful in my activities, for example, no running sports, no chaotic movements (very hard for a kid in his 20s) Ive been climbing for 5 years now, with my last dislocation being about. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. These are generally used to extend placements and make alpine draws. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. My standard draw arsenal is 6 alpine draws, 5 single length and 2 double lengths over my shoulder. You can double up the sling by putting a half twist in and then one loop over the other, but with this method, you’ll likely find that one loop will grow longer than the other and then get in the way or slowly strangle you. Sounds complicated, and like you carry too many alpines. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. That said, I keep a couple of nylon slings on me (usually one 60cm and one 120cm) as they are nicer for building anchors, extending your rappel, etc. I usually bring 3 120s, extension is your friend in easy terrain, rope drag is your enemy. One for "mission critical" placements uses a pair of ultralight lockers. Have done a good amount of diverse… -Prussik cord with a locker. 10 votes, 24 comments. Because both of your ascenders are toothed ascenders take special care to make sure your setup is auto feeding, you really don't want to whip onto an ascender, both because ascenders cut ropes at like 4kn of force, and also because you will fuck up the sheath of your I usually rack my nuts at the front of my front gear loops and cams running smallest to largest at the back (also front loops). E. If you dont have the money or the strength to spare for a shoulder sling and a double shoulder length sling, butbyou have the money and strength for an extra draw, you are asking for trouble or a bad time. For an all-around sling, go with 120cm nylon. Grab 10-15 shoulder-length slings (60cm) and 20-30 non-locking biners. I rack my draws on the sling and gear on my harness. Ive built muscle around my shoulder and generally feel great about it. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. Posted by u/Enonnaig - 5 votes and 50 comments Remember you can also cut some cost by slinging single length slings with biner over your shoulder for cam placements. 1. It keeps things snug enough that I don't have to worry about having too much slack in the rope, or having to adjust the feed during the climb. 4 cm), 16" (40. A long Kong Panic works for me. Oct 23, 2012 · Related: How to Identify Bad Climbing Bolts. Clip the sling to the two bolts, then pull the center down to equalize, then do an overhand or 8 on a bight to create a master point. Fold it over on itself and clip the other end of the sling into your belay loop with a locker. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things; One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. Apr 10, 2020 · All mine are made with a tripled shoulder-length slings (alpine draws?) I usually carry 12 for multipitch climbs. Alpine draws clipped to a 30cm sling and hanging from a hook in a rafter. I don't usually take them all, but it's pretty common for me to take 4-6 quickdraws, 4-6 alpines, and one double length alpine just in case. Single-length slings (60cm/24 in. 6 draws and 6 shoulder length slings is pretty standard. Southern Spain, some multi pitches, all sport climbing. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. So I love take photos but I often find the weight of the camera to be too much weight to carry around my neck for too long… May 18, 2021 · 1 shoulder-length sling; Wiregates tend to be a little more versatile than solid-gate ‘biners because of their lighter weight. See full list on outdoorgearlab. 6 24-inch “shoulder-length” slings (nylon or Dyneema). But I can only raise my arm to chest height. Anyway, shoulder feels bomber now and better than the 'healthy' one! Good luck with the surgery and LMK if you've any other questions. On a climbing harness already heavy with gear, carrying light draws makes a difference. 40m+), shoulder/body slings are the shizzle. Then I take my double lengths, fold in half, and then overhand them all together. He climbed another 40 or 50 feet, built an anchor, and then pulled up his rope, only to find it had been chopped. eg. (Like 1/2lb). I prefer the mental comfort of not using a largely dyneema sling (DONT JUDGE ME BEARBREEDER), so I use this sling, rather than this dynex/dyneema (basically the same thing) sling. 5mm lead rope; 1 60m x 9mm static haul rope; 1 progress-capture pulley; 1 swivel for haul bag; Personal Gear. Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. 1). I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. EDIT: Here's the link. My trad sling stash consists of 6 floppy, thin quickdraws, 8 single length alpines, and 2 double length alpines. -2 HMS style lockers for clove hitches. nope, they're saying you have two options: 1, you can place one quick link in your top-most bolt, and lower off that with a prusik tied to the rope, which effectively eliminates all excess slack above you, so if the bolt does fail, you won't deck. If 10 feet extension from each bolt isn't enough and you are on the correct route, before grabbing a huge piece of static or another cordalette, carefully double check those bolts because Exactly. Dec 15, 2006 · Swami belt then a shoulder length sling, with a twist and then step through each loop. Clip a normal alpine draw to the cam sling. Sep 19, 2019 · Rappel extensions started becoming in vogue around 2006 after a climbing accident in Wyoming where a friction hitch backup was likely tended or pushed down by the device causing the climber to lose control and eventually rappel off the end of the rope. Wirenose (or equivalent) if you can. Sport draws clipped to a 30cm sling and hanging from a hook in a rafter. I’m at 4 months post surgery now and my shoulder LOOKS great, no bump. 10- pitch, a shoulder-length sling on his harness caught on a small dinner plate of rock and dislodged the small blade. 6 million pounds. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. Very versatile edit for clarity: The smaller your friction knot diameter is the more it Bites. Gym climber looking to get outside next spring, mostly in the northeast USA. Auto-blocking belay/rappel device with 2 locking carabiners. Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried. 4 small lockers So $800 added onto your sport gear of draws, belay device, harness, shoes, chalkbag. Also, try to rack gear on your harness as you are cleaning in the same way that you would rack it when you are leading. ifpumbshdrhfveywcdkkamuhpiqasudmplfusxoixujepsgnozdleefrhzycotgczfn