Cam hook aid climbing Remove any moisture from cam hook surfaces and oil with a good water-displacing product (WD-40 or equivalent) when not in use. This route often goes hammerless, so you may see a “C” rating, indicating clean aid. D4 oder Grade7; Die besten Hartstahlhaken und Bigwall-Hammer produziert Black Diamond. Aid climbing gear: In addition to regular trad gear, you'll need some specialist stuff to aid climb. A2-A3/C2-C3: The difficulty level is moderate due to the tricky placement of fixed aids but there is less probability of a high fall. Here are some tips to help you make short work of longer, harder climbs. Other bits of advice -Filming aid climbing is retarded unless its on a nailing route. They are scary at first, but if you "aid boulder practice" enough with them, you will cruise C2 as fast as you free climb. Here’s a trick for deploying them that offers convenience and extra reach. Set up a top rope or go ‘aid bouldering’ to test them out. Oct 15, 2021 · Aid climbing is a type of rock climbing wherein climbers use devices called aiders—such as cam hooks, nuts, daisy chains, fifi hooks, step ladders, and pitons—to help support their bodyweight. This generates a little more force than bodyweight without the harsh impact of a bounce and simulates the direction you might pull the piece when you're higher up on it. Currently two different end-effector designs have been created. Some will feel that they're cheating - some don't give a shit. Big walling is a big topic so we broke it into bite-size "pitches" with a video to START each one. There are a few types of hooks: sky hooks, which are really big captain-hook style, and are used for grabbing flakes and other things you could totally get your fingers around. So you’ve hauled Le Pig to the anchor, now what? Oct 3, 2003 · Gym Climbing; Magazine; Aid – Avoid the big ride. The over-bent hook has a subtle hourglass-sh Mar 3, 2025 · There is a great thread about the re-emergence of the cam hook here NOTE: cam hooks are not appropriate for sandstone as the camming action blows out the edges of the crack. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the This advance is based on the emulation of the equipment used by human climbers rather than the emulation of the human hand. I cursed my puny biceps as I gripped a carabiner with one hand and, feet in aiders, crawled up Southern Man (V 5. At one point he brought me some wide hooks he called cam hooks and asked me to try them out. Micro nuts (brass, offsets) - love em. I used an overhand knot because it was easy, but a water knot like Pic 1 may be better. What would replace the most useful clean aid tool since offset aliens? Luckily, Moses Enterprises stepped up to recreate cam hooks. Then go for cam hooks, and maybe a cliffhanger hook if you've got the gumption. html which details how to go from the very basics to the summit of On harder routes, it is worth supplementing your hook rack with some giant hooks (such as the Pika Meat Hook) and pointed hooks of various sizes to fit in drilled holes. Metolius Master cam plastic sheath will likely get shredded from aiding; safety will not be compromised. Cam hooks. They fit into small cracks from the size of a thin lost arrow to a #1 Camalot, and work by simply camming against the sides of a crack under bodyweight. Share to Outside Feed Create a new post with the article attached. Jan 27, 2020 · The depth on Brasovia's set of cam hooks is roughly this: Large (1 3/4") Wide (1 1/2") Narrow (1 1/4") Small (3/4") So with much of a flare at all in the crack the smaller sizes quickly become unusable given their short length. Andere renommierte Kletterfirmen wie Metolius, Petzl, Edelrid oder Cassin haben ebenfalls eine gut sortierte Auswahl an Specializing in manufacturing aid climbing gear for the best outdoor adventure possible. a. Sep 2, 2018 · Moses, Leeper, GrandWall, PikaFind my Rope Solo online courses here:https://blissclimbing. Totem Cams […] Aid climbing hooks & fifis from BD, Cassin, Edelrid, Fish, Leeper, Moses TOMAHAWKS, Petzl, Pika Singing Rock, Vermin and others. Care: A water-displacing dry film oil is applied to steel cam hooks during manufacturing. Mar 29, 2018 · I agree that Pic 2 is the way to go for sky hooks, talons, & the like. Dec 31, 2018 · Big Wall and Aid Climbing; Latest Posts in all Forums. Homemade cam hooks. Clip a couple CAM HOOKS to each aider and shuttle up cracks with speed and efficiency, stopping occasionally to place lead pro. Hooks, cam hooks, and pitons may be required. I had moved from aid to free climbing then, but went out and tried them and Ed started making them. Pointed Skyhooks To make your hook pointed, simply file the end to a blunt point at around 60 degrees. Jun 24, 2013 · Cam hooks Cam hooks not only save time, they are often the only clean placement that works in a thin crack. ill add more to that later poop tube will be a part of the Jan 14, 2020 · The author using his hook on the Grey Circle pitch (A2+) of Zodiac in 2015, when he and Alex Honnold sent 7 El Cap routes in 7 days. Cam hooks, originally designed by Ed Leeper, are simple, hard-steel levers Big wall and aid climbing. Change your mentality. The aim is to have lots of videos, Feb 20, 2025 · Fabio Elli knows a thing or two about aid climbing. Dec 25, 2018 · Cam hooks, while they may appear about as secure as a tortilla chip, are essential tools for modern clean aid climbing. com/en/online-courses/THANKS https://www. Figure 2. 9 C2). Advanced aid skills (cam hooks, copper heads, hooking) will be reviewed but these skills are reserved for an advanced course. Various sizes get as comfortable as humanly possible with them. Follow topic: Email Given that you only need a handful of cam hooks, it is very Oct 25, 2023 · Moses Climbing (v. Pitons (or pegs as they are often known in Britain) are, since the advent of modern wires, nuts and camming devices, seldom used in the UK for summer rock-climbing any more. Learning to cam hook can be spooky, so practice before you get on the wall. Available in four common sizes, cam hooks greatly reduce the need to hammer a piton. Don’t think of aid as cheating. Hammering cam hooks: a gentle tap with a hammer can make a sketchy cam hook placement more bomber. 7 as the hardest mandatory free climbing. Dependable. Share. This video was filmed on a pile of choss, in the middle Jan 17, 2010 · When Leeper stopped production of cam hooks a few years ago, the aid climbing community was terrified. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. . Offset aliens - mandatory for beat out pin scars. com - Big wall aid climbing gear, fifi hooks, aluminum aiders, aiders, cam hooks, hooks, aid hooks, pointed hooks, aid climbing, etrier, Pulleys, Carabiners Mar 11, 2025 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Offset Cams are amazing – Don’t leave home without them. To test these, weight the piece, press your body away from the wall and move side-to-side. For hooks, 1 cliffhanger, 1 grappling, 1 talon. Aside from pegs, also included here is a good selection of other aid gear ranging from skyhooks to copperheads, and rivet hangers to cam hooks. smallest range of cams - get comfortable with standing on 2 lobes. Take it with you. Moses makes really good aid gear, check them out. Pitons were the only fixed pieces available, though – and because they couldn’t be removed, climbers had to pack an unwieldy amount of pitons to ascend large Apr 23, 2019 · Big Wall and Aid Climbing; Latest Posts in all Forums. TRAD RACK Advancements in modern aid climbing gear have completely removed the need for hammering on most easier routes. Follow topic: Email Notify on site Post Reply How do you sling your cam hooks? Webbing Brasovia. Poop in a bag, on your ledge. Gaining this skill set will enable participants to set their sites on a large range of objectives from single pitch aid climbs to long free climbs. Oct 26, 2011 · Cam-hook technique has been honed to a fine edge by Yosemite’s speed-aid climbers, but even if you prefer to climb walls slowly, as I do, cam hooking can save you a lot of hassle when aiding thin cracks, as well as protect the rock and win you “clean aid” points. It takes 50 to 100 practice cam hook placements to distinguish the bomber from the time bombs. Jun 20, 2012 · Tech Tips: Cam-hooking 101A speedy alternative to nuts and pins – Cam-hook technique has been honed to a fine edge by Yosemite’s speed-aid climbers, but even if you prefer to climb walls slowly, as I do, cam hooking can save you a lot of hassle when aiding thin cracks, as well as protect the rock and win you “clean aid” points. Even moderate aid routes (A2-A3) are often climbed clean or with only a few hammered placements. Our aid climbing course will cover skills needed to tackle a big wall. com/packs/howtobigwall. Features sharp edges at the tip and non-slippery surface for a better grip. You'll want at least doubles of most cams. This video is part of a full online course (100+ videos) about big wall and aid climbing: https://vdiffclimbing. Jun 7, 2017 · thanks for the suggestions - keep em coming! yeah, i dont say much about ascenders because so far i really only have experience with the petzl and the yellow Jumars. As the co-author of one of the better aid books around (Hooking Up, with Peter Zabrok), Elli can beak, beak, cam hook, free move without much worry. Clean Aid Climbing Aid climbing traces back to the 1900s, when people were starting to explore mountaineering for the very first time. Slinging cam hooks. Using a fifi hook to rest instead of clipping in directly with a. supertopo. Place protection pieces as if you are free climbing. do you still keep a webbing loop on the cam hook, and do you put the quick link directly between the aider and the metal eye off the hook, or between the aider and the hook's webbing? Thanks . Oct 16, 2008 · So what's the standard? double set of hybrids, double set of hooks, double set rp's and/or another set of offset brass micro nuts, double set sliding nuts? Link cams for nasty flares? That would seem ideal but I have a bit more to buy still if that's the case. Heads, Beaks, Hooks, Rivet Hangers) und Yates Climbing Gear (Steigleitern, Big Wall Gurt, Gear Slings,Screamer). Cam Nov 22, 2021 · Aid climbing is a type of rock climbing wherein climbers use devices called aiders—such as cam hooks, nuts, daisy chains, fifi hooks, step ladders, and pitons—to help support their bodyweight. Cam hooks, while they may appear about as secure as a tortilla chip, are essential tools for modern clean aid climbing. BD 2 beaks are my most used size, #3 are a close second. all the ascenders i have seen out there work. They may damage the rock, so stay away from established routes when practising. Put the camera a way and save your belayer some time. Amazingly secure, each CAM HOOK can be used in any width crack that will accept it - with varying leverage forces. The key with cam hooking is to practice a lot on the ground. A standard set of hooks is 1-2 ea Talon or Bathook, Cliffhanger, and Grappling(filed to a Feb 2, 2018 · Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we examine the various cam hooks used in aid climbing. Set up your ledge on a real cliff and spend a night in it, not just in a backyard tree. Hooks (Grappling, Cliffhanger, and Talon are the names of Black Diamond hooks) Bring a Grappling hook even on easy walls to occasionally help transition from aid to free climbing. Aiding without aiders. You fall, the rock is scarred forever. My favorite cam hook is the Moses Cam Hook (Chris Mac Pick). Zodiac’s rating suggests moderately difficult aid, with 5. Gabriel Mange. The use of applied leverage transfers bodyweight into holding strength in the rock. Available Options May 19, 2023 · The medium size Moses cam hooks definitely get the most use of all my black steel doodads, get 2 of them so you can leapfrog. Specialized aid climbing equipment is required on this route. com/courses/big-wall0:00 Introducti A hook that cams into a placement, usually a vertically oriented thin crack. Many factors like skill/experience, having the right equipment, height, free climbing ability, cleanlines of the cracks, or the condition of fixed gear like bolts, pitons and copperheads can easily make a pitch easier or more difficult than what the rating suggests. Learn how to place copperheads and hooks Cam hooks or skyhooks shouldn't be bounce tested, as they would be damaged over time. However, 90 percent of the time I use the narrow. Cam Hook: Cam Hooks are used to smoothly make quick progress up cracks. Wipe off excess oil with a clean, dry cloth. Cam Hooks are used to smoothly make quick progress up cracks. Climbing-aid equipment, specifically cams, aid hooks, and cam hooks, are used by sport climbers when a quick ascent of a cliff is desired (see Figure 1). But I don't see how it's best for cam hooks. If you're just getting started aid climbing then build up your trad rack first and focus on really small pieces. Learn to climb a big wall: aid climbing, hauling, jumaring and sleeping on a portaledge. com for the Feb 27, 2022 · Clean aid routes (designated by C1, C2 … C6) can be ascended and protected with removable gear like cams, nuts, tri-cams, and hooks. I'm thinking more particularly hard clean aid (C3-4 if it exists). Like cams, they do not require a constriction to work. Details. at the moment i've attached them the same as my hooks (overhand knot on top/outside) does anyone know if this is correct or know of the BETTER WAY! This advance is based on the emulation of the equipment used by human climbers rather than the emulation of the human hand. Climb past funky placements with clean “finger locks” of metal. 50. Jun 15, 2012 · Cam-hook technique has been honed to a fine edge by Yosemite's speed-aid climbers, but even if you prefer to climb walls slowly, as I do, cam hooking can save you a lot of hassle when aiding thin cracks, as well as protect the rock and win you "clean aid" points. When I tied my cam hooks, I went with Pic 3. In comparison, advanced aid routes (designated by A1, A2 … A6) require fixed or semi-permanent hardware like bolts, rivets, pitons, peckers, and copperheads. Sep 28, 2012 · A bit of aid climbing is the key to keeping difficulties within your grade and moving quickly up whatever terrain you encounter. Having a low bulk, durable, secure, easy to rack and strong sling on your hook may ease anxiety at certain moments. You might also use aiders in other forms of big wall climbing such as sport climbing and trad climbing. A lose/lose situation. I carry the narrow and wide. Many old aid lines can now be aided (or free climbed) with clean gear by using the piton scars created from hundreds of early ascents. Nov 3, 2010 · 10. The Advanced Hook Emulator can function in a variety of modes. Published Oct 3, 2003 Mark Synnott. Probably doesn't matter for this application. Aliens, offset cams, and totems are bomber for the little stuff. Clean aid climbing is a lot of fun. Rock Climbing; Aid Gear; Cam Hook ; Moses Climbing Cam Hook. This is an essential clean-aid piece of hardware for every aid climber. A1/C1-C2: The fixed placements are secure and the climbing is well suited for beginners. Only did only one cam hook move the entire climb, did not need a talon or skyhook. but it seems like just about everyone prefers the petzl ones these days. Smoothed surfaces around webbing slows wear. I put the quicklink on the aider and the webbing of the cam hook on the quicklink. If a surface becomes rusty, remove rust with Scotch-Brite or a fine abrasive pad. Ca A companion to the book How To Big Wall Climb http://www. thinkific. Placed 1 nut the entire route and 1 micronut, also takes longer for follower to clean passive gear Dec 1, 2020 · History of Aid Climbing: Fixed Aid Climbing vs. Cam Hooks Cam Hooks are used to smoothly make quick progress up cracks. Now you have gained the rights to spray about your aid climbing ability on cc. Aid Ratings explained: The rating of any aid pitch is incredibly arbitrary. Do “aid bouldering” close to the ground, placing all manner of tiny stoppers, marginal hooks and micro cams until you really know how far you can push them before Jun 7, 2017 · There are four sizes of cam hooks. Even so, he makes mistakes. Must be threaded with a separate piece of webbing fed through the hole. -Aid climbing is most definatly not "cool". This is free resource by HowNOT2 that will help you get up big rocks. Mar 8, 2024 · Practice transitioning from aid climbing to free climbing. Royal Robbins resting on his aiders during the 3rd pitch of the FA of the Salathé Wall (VI 5. Re: Stick Clips - that's 100% up to you IMO. 2x cam hooks 2x skyhooks 10x regular quickdraws 10x Jun 1, 2004 · This advance is based on the emulation of the equipment used by human climbers rather than the emulation of the human hand. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. 10 A2) on Washington Column in Yosemite. Aid climbing traces its origins to the start of all climbing, with ladders used on historic ascents such as the 1492 ascent of Mont Aiguille, the 1786 ascent of Mont Blanc, or the 1893 ascent of Devils Tower, and with drilled bolts on historic ascents such as the 1875 first ascent of Half Dome. The use of applied leverage transfers bodyweight into holding force against the rock. Chaps after taking delivery of some new Cam Hooks (god bless mister Leeper)i was presented with the problem of how to sling the blighters. com Your guys' problem? You put step 10 before all others. verticallstore. $16. Later he made some of the first nut tools. Get past funky placements with clean finger locks of metal. The over-bent hook has a subtle hou Advancements in modern aid climbing gear have completely removed the need for hammering on most easier routes. Cam Hooks; Tomahawks; Rivet Hangers; Logan Hooks; Heads; Tools; Dec 16, 2013 · The aid “A” scale goes from A0 (mostly free with simple aid) to A5 (a lot of body weight–only pro and big falls possible). Placements EPISODE: Aid Climbing - Hooking and Nutting The Big Wall Bible Knowledge is zero grams. Oct 15, 2015 · We wandered over to the gear store to fill in our aid rack with beaks (mini ice-axes that you wedge into cracks), and hooks (exactly what it sounds like). He would make samples and I would use them and after a few rounds they would go into production. wkny nkvpno kgfmptol hkw fdg uafovu wwtc huhakl bzlomfwd oftts iiygjlpq aqfrk cfo fxemhw vgfhap