Top rope climbing vs lead climbing reddit Maybe we climb at the same gym. Anchor the other end of the rope to the ground/your first available anchor, and run the rope backwards through the GriGri (basically attach your GriGri upside down, the ground anchor is the climber side, YOU are the belayer side). Lead climbing routes actually traverse and go under massive overhangs, etc. The other setting up a toprope on 25 foot cliff had a fatal fall. 9 gym rope at 40m vs a Beal Booster III or Edelrid Boa in 60m. 5. Here's a nasty top rope whipper for you. Top rope is just for It took me going through this to realize that those climbers I used to see leading hard routes didn't get to that point by TRing even harder routes; they got there by always lead climbing. 8 - 5. The climber ties into one end of the rope on the ground. Jul 4, 2024 · Key Differences Between Lead Climbing and Top Rope Climbing. For a beginner I would recommend getting the cheapest rope that's climbing rated you can find. At Planet Granite I'll climb 11d top rope, 11a lead. I basically never Boulder. At a minimum I think I will need a rope and a rope bag, my main question is should I get a 60m vs a 35/40m rope? Considering the BD 9. I can follow/top rope 5. 2 and thinner, ropes will last just as long used as a personal rope of a climbing guide, but the weekend warrior that isn't taking as specific care of them will find that it's going to get worn and soft and fuzzy much faster. I'd rather spend my time/energy doing tries on individually harder stuff at the bouldering walls than climbing easier but more physically exhausting things on rope. In the gym on top rope, have your belay partner give you a little slack and not take in too much especially on hard moves. 7 and most people find that they drop about 2 grades on lead vs top rope. This is because the height of the top rope wall is about half of the height of the lead wall, and also because the lead wall has lots of overhangs. The rare individual might lead and top rope the same grade, but in my experience most people will get a clean top rope ascent at least two letter grades harder than they redpoint. Clipping the rope adds a totally different dynamic to the climb. I understand a lot of this comes down to experience, and as I spend more time outside those numbers will probably merge. ). 11-5. However, I am looking to get into lead climbing and potentially start going outside once I'm comfortable with the basics of lead (and when New England winter allows it lol). 3M subscribers in the climbing community. 274 votes, 101 comments. It will mainly be top rope, but I have been learning to lead climb too. 10's so I can start lead climbing and get the "just me and the wall," feeling back again. Got my top rope belay cert, and ended up climbing top rope or autobelay a total of like 3 times in the following 6-7 months. V5/6s is where I am at right now. Go with an experienced friend to choose and try many shoes on. I am going to go for my lead rope certification within the next month hopefully and I was wondering about everyone's opinions on using an ATC or GriGri or any other belay device for lead climbing. I boulder clearly under the level i can do in toprope or lead climbing. By the time you've worn out your first rope you'll know what you want your second rope to do. Top rope in my gym is generally smaller holds and a bit more technical, compared to a lead route in the same difficulty level. 1. With lead climbing, the rope starts at the bottom of the climb, with one end tied to the climber and the belayer attaching a short Consider, for example, climbing on an overhang. During the weekend, we were climbing outdoors and felt a tad bit embarrassed that my friend had to climb and leave the quickdraws for me to top rope. It's all about learning. The rope isn’t above you in an anchor. Nov 27, 2023 · This blog post will go over the differences between the top rope and lead climbing, their benefits and drawbacks, and which one might be better suited for you based on your skill level, experience, and climbing goals. 6. 12 indoors on top rope. If I know they mostly climb indoor, I tend to assume they mean top rope indoor. The home of Climbing on reddit. I guess it boils down to the fact that I spend a larger percentage of my time focusing on technique when bouldering, compared to top rope/lead. The rope increases safety because the belayer can control the rope and assist in catching the climber in the event of a fall. To me that particular few holds feel like a boulder problem Feb 21, 2025 · Top rope climbing, on the other hand, uses a rope. Stop top roping, and start bouldering. Maybe once every 2-3 months. Second, get good-fitting shoes first BEFORE anything. Climb a lot. But in your personal experience, how do climbing grades indoor compare to climbing grades outdoor? The home of Climbing on reddit. Many climbers differentiate their sport leading grade from their top-rope climbing grade and their trad leading grade. 11+ confidently in a gym setting. But today I was leading an overhanging route where one of the quickdraws was in my lap as I clipped it, and I ended up clipping between my figure 8 and my harness. The belayer attaches a belay device to the Honestly, static ropes are not very useful in free rock climbing (mostly for rappelling, fixed lines in aid climbing, etc. At Castle Rock I'll climb 10c top rope, 10b lead. Even if you do all of your easier warm-ups on lead before moving to top roping, it'll make a difference! I'd also practice clipping off the wall. I have the same experience but it makes sense in my case. Mine is switching to all grigris in a couple of weeks, and the same sentiment os about here, even with the staff. In the case of a top rope fall you'll swing out from the wall as far a lot further — your anchor is above the lip, this could mean swinging into trees, or rock face. Top Rope groups often lead to a "camp out" mentality, especially at popular moderate areas where a group will put up top ropes and camp them out all day. Lead Climbing. Just used mine yesterday for the first time and boy did they feel sticky on slab. 9 I might take a fall or two. This is what’s seen in gyms. Once someone is proficient with both an ATC and a GriGri2, I think the case is difficult to make that the ATC is any safer. Climb the route, top rope up a second, then GTFO so others can climb too. Top roping more does not help you lead confidence. I soon discovered this after I couldn't climb any farther. Agree with the Veloce. Whenever I hear the big no-nos (with regards to clipping) for lead climbing, it's always not to z-clip and to back-clip. top rope whenever feasible to get better at learning to rest efficiently & feel more comfortable with lead. After climbing my routes, to return the favor, I wanted to help and belay him lead climb. Totally trusted my feet. It would definitely take me about a week or more to finish those. Now you have to transition everything to rope climbing, which happens with a lot of rope climbing and there are much more variables into the equation when talking When top roping I can usually completely a 10d in one try, but outside a 5. IDK just didn't appeal to me almost at all. see the rest of the conversation below, but lead climbing is both psychologically and physically more difficult than top roping. Lead belay skills are valuable, they will give you a lot of options for partners. I use a Trango Vergo as a backup. I just want a standard Jun 14, 2021 · It’s the same climb as TRing. If I know someone climbs outside regularly, I assume they mean their lead grade outdoor. I boulder in the same place I sport climb - so rock is similar (I think that's important to the equation here) I boulder around V5/V6 and I'm climbing mid 5. I even struggle leading 5. You tie into the end of the rope and climb up placing protection (pro) along the way. 7 but go on about how "sport climbing is neither," but you've also got sport climbers who shit on trad climbers for the precise reasons you've outlined and argue the opposite side of the coin that sport climbing For lead climbing, a Grigri is more difficult to use correctly than an ATC; for top-rope climbing, the opposite is true. 5 isn't better than 9. But if you are newbie, you should either not be introduced to top rope or leave behind very quickly. Jun 2, 2021 · Please post some videos of people who can't even set up a decent top rope doing a great job lead climbing. Generally, people find that the grade that they are able to top-rope is higher than the Dec 30, 2023 · Lead climbing opens up new possibilities and challenges for climbers looking to advance beyond top rope climbing. Bouldering emphasizes strength and technique. Never climb on a top rope. Climbing can be a dangerous activity that should only be attempted with proper training, equipment, and safety precautions. 8mm and bigger. Once they’re comfortable top roping, lots of climbers choose to upgrade to lead climbing. If you are sport climbing, you will be clipping quickdraws into bolts. When belaying the same technique for "taking in" that is used with an ATC or similar device is used, however in the event of a fall instead of having to "lock off the device" the belay does nothing and the device locks by itself. One fell about 30 feet and suffered injuries that have permanently limited her mobility. I used to only boulder but am If you simply want to get outside, learn how to set up a proper top-rope and simply TR things until you are with someone who can truly teach lead climbing. I can onsight most v3/v4 and do half the v5s after a few tries. So you must have a good base of climbing strength. It's great to start off with top, it's a good way to learn technique and build confidence but if you're waiting to reach a point where you know 100% you're ready for lead, you might not reach it. But more people are climbing only in gyms or only top rope so who knows, I think it changes based on the context. 12d's to work the moves. Dec 27, 2022 · Top rope belaying is managing the rope for someone climbing the top rope from the other side of the rope, thus creating opposition. Bouldering is the best training for sport climbing if you're a sport climber. Half a second has kept me off the wall for months, the only way I'm able to climb somewhat confidently now is top rope. Is top rope climbing just like belaying or is it different somehow? With top rope climbing, the anchor is at the top of the climb, with the rope going down one side to the belayer, and the other side to the climber. However I would belay off the master point of the anchor over/at the edge to maintain visual with my climber. Given that huge difficulty gap between two places so close to each other, I'm always curious what my gym bases its (in my opinion) heavily featherbagged (consistently by at least 4 grades) ratings on. Physical and Mental Challenges. Since the anchor for the rope is at the top of the wall, the belayer takes up the excess slack (loose/extra cord) created as the climber ascends and can give rope as the climber is lowered. Much more important than being able to lead climb. Lead climbing allows you to explore more adventurous multi-pitch routes while sharpening your risk assessment, gear placement, and climbing abilities. I also have Scarpa Instinct S for lead and top rope and I love love them for small feet, pitched climbing. Climbing is about experience. 10d outdoors Yeah. The prevailing assumption has been leading a route outdoor. . Unlike most I started and only climbed out doors for the first 2 months. It's why we tie a knot at the end of a rope for instance. Lead climbing is a true equalizer because you can't just pull past hard moves, you actually have to solve them. Building up endurance to climb more 5. From top roping, to lead climbing, to sport and trad climbing, to learning to climb outdoors, to learning how to be self-sufficient climbing outdoors, building anchors etc etc etc. If you have any desire to improve as a climber, lead climbing is a critical part of improvement. Risk Level: Lead climbing has higher risks due to the potential for longer falls, while top rope climbing is safer with constant support. For a first rope, go for a thicker one as you will most likely be top roping more. I started out top roping and slowly worked myself into lead. It's endless. The Tampa one is more of an intimate bouldering gym with a few top rope routes. As you approach 9. Top As for belaying I would personally top rope on the last climb and top out. I'm pretty sure the gyms here in Holland use dynamic rope even for top roping (possibly low stretch dynamic rope). It's basically a Grigri but the rope runs through it in a straight way when unlocked, so it feeds a bit better (didn't compare to a proper ascender). For lead it introduces some risk because you can't give and take rope fast enough but that means nothing for why it's best for top. While down climbing a V0, I slipped on the very last foot hold, no more than 3 feet off the ground. It was easy to get comfortable climbing top, and I still get nervous climbing lead. Only once have I flashed a 5. Lead climbing is closer to bouldering than top rope. I think I'd only prefer static rope for top rope soloing, and even that is theoretical because in order for me to get the top rope up I first have to lead rope solo up there and The initial 25 ft of radically overhanging savergry, precise movement and powerful gymnastic climbing is in my opinion slightly harder than Esperanza V14 but on a rope clipping bolts and then yields a jug followed by solid 5. 13 climbing. Top rope I can do 11d/12a with some rest on a 50 ft wall. Every single comp is lead climbing. you can do fall-training, on a sports route, best in a climbing gym with 15+ meter walls, climb an easy route till the end, clip, double check if secure, and then take 2-3 arms length rope and jump, this should be a 4-6 meters of controlled fall. If you go for a risky move in top rope and fail nothing bad happens, but if you do the risky move in bouldering and fail you hit the ground. Bouldering teaches you real consequence to climbing that top rope can never teach you. GriGri2 pays out slack very easily when you get the hand positioning right, makes the falls/hanging a lot more comfortable (especially when the belayer is off the ground), prevents rope slip when people are hanging, and lowers very smoothly. In some ways, being able to build endurance by doing laps and building to solve hard problems quickly has helped me become a much better lead climber. I'm about in the same boat as you. I have been strictly top rope so far and have gotten up to 5. honestly i think you can find shitty personalities in every kind of climbing--sure you've got trad dads who won't climb harder than 5. " It is most definitely safer for top rope, and climbing is all about removing those little 'happens once in a thousand' accidents. I believe it hurts it, because you are building lead up in your mind so much you will be quite fearful every time you try it. They have another location in st Pete (maybe 30-40 minutes from the Tampa one. Even though the 60m rope will be mostly used in the gym as I get experience leading, dynamic belay, and clipping. Once you do get to the point where you can lead, grab the basics: 10-12 quickdraws 1-2 bail bieners 2 rap rings PAS 60-70m climbing rope locking carabiners atc/grigri However that means that I’m always climbing slightly below my top-rope ability. Also was able to wear them the whole time fairly comfortably. My biggest tips would be to lead vs. In an ideal fall for a lead climb you'll only fall as far as your last clip, plus any slack. The Sport Climbing competitions (YouTube it, its really awesome!). Oct 12, 2020 · If someone asks you for your sport climbing grade or your lead grade, they mean the highest grade of sport climb that you can cleanly lead. Very sadly, I've known two people who had accidents setting up top ropes. I started climbing 9 months ago started with bouldering first and gradually to top rope and now sport. Climbing Technique: Lead climbing involves placing protection while ascending, whereas top rope climbing relies on a pre-set anchor. Don't look at climbing as a singular road, with the sole goal of pushing grades. If you can project an 8a+ then your confidence on lead is probably high. And yes we are scared of falling. You then climb up the wall, trailing the rope behind you and clipping it in at certain points so that it catches you when you fall. Lead climbing is when you tie into the rope at the bottom of the route, so it’s not anchored to anything. I don’t know my true Outdoor trad lasting limit cause it’s so freaking scary. 9 top rope and V3 boulder. I can boulder v4s pretty easy some on the 1st try and some takes a few tries. 7 outdoors and it was awesome :) The risk that you can fall on a move while bouldering compared to top rope prepares me a lot more for lead climbing harder routes outdoors, and makes it more satisfying when you finally send a route you've been working on. You won't be discerning enough to tell the difference between it and a tip top Petzl 8mm. The st Pete one is really large and nice with a big lead climbing wall. And take a lead class in a local gym, they will provide ropes. Then just get whatever is on sale, most of the bigger companies all make fine ropes for single pitch stuff and unless you want to ice climb getting a dry treatment is overkill. the ATC guide in guide mode will lock unless you actively prevent it from happening no matter how slow you pull the rope. If sitting at the edge I would belay off my harness, if hanging I would extend and use a guide mode device. When I boulder, I can do most V2s and some V3s, having sent one V4 in my life. I recently ran into a (for me) unclimbable problem on a toprope route. Jul 4, 2024 · Top rope climbing is best suited for: Indoor climbing gyms; Beginner climbers; Practice sessions; Comparison: Lead Climbing vs Top Rope Climbing Key Differences Between Lead Climbing and Top Rope Climbing. 11s. Hello! I've been climbing for about 2 years now, but over the past 3 months have been going on a regular basis and getting more serious about it. You “lead” the rope up with you. I intend to learn how to lead climb. I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. So bouldering and has really made it easy for me to solve cruxes in my projects. Been climbing for 8 months but went to boulder maybe three or four times. That said, compared to a Grigri it's easier to misuse it while lead belaying and I never lend mine to people who belay me. 12 at the moment, as well as have hopped on a couple of 5. Every company measures their ropes Feb 1, 2022 · In top-rope climbing, the rope is already threaded through an anchor at the top of the route. Recently within the past two months I have gotten into top rope climbing and I can confidently climbing 5. Climbing for 3 months. Mandating grigris for top rope but not lead climbing seems poorly thought out, and could lead to accidents of people switch from a grigri to an ATC instead of the other way around. Also, look st any international climbing competition. The first is very large and has many rope walls with top ropes and lead climbing with some pretty fun looking features, but I’ve tried the bouldering there and it’s pretty shocking, it’s not even that there’s not much of it but it just very poorly put together with very little thought going into the routes and extremely small walls. I top rope/ lead 2/week. Leading requires a lot more time and at the gym I don’t know if it helps with headspace at all since the clips are so close together anyway Vertical ventures. Now when I talk to folks at the gym about new, difficult routes, they say "yeah, I'll probably practice it on top rope for a while before I lead it. Don't stress about the diameter. My gym asks that you comfortable climb 5. And when I top rope, I use dynamic rope, too. the static and dynamic elongation percentages are the based on how the rope is loaded (static means load applied when rope is already stretched out like a toprope fall I boulder about 30% of the time and sport climb about 70% of the time. Whereas on top rope/lead there are usually only a few moves where I have to focus on technique. The difference between top rope is in the name. I would say 9. Un-tie the knots as you go. You will be challenged physically and mentally by both bouldering and top rope climbing. Internally, the rope runs along a cam, which allows the rope to pass if moving slowly but when the rope moves quickly the cam will rotate, pinching the rope. No need to switch devices for lowering. A lot, a lot. Learn to belay well. 9 (but doesn’t actually verify this in any way) because the easiest lead routes are 5. If they are showing you these types of stats on manufacturer's website, its likely a dynamic rope. The top rope moves tend to be easier but once you exert that energy there's so much more left to climb! So this thread is making me feel kind of I'm at a "normal" progression. Only one lead climb so far. Top rope is good for linear routes that go primarily straight up and down. 9. 9, but have been wondering lately; Should I stick with top rope, or is it better to "cross train" on bouldering problems? In one top rope session I can climb maybe up to ten routes. It should auto-feed through without catching as you climb, but will catch a fall. I find top rope to be more efficient to do for training, I top rope 2-3x a week and only lead once, it’s a huge difference than having a lead-only elitist attitude lol. For me at least, I had to focus on technique (still have to) for almost every move on a bouldering problem. yult kwaci ibmzw hqkhy sgix hcykwj uvozue lhvd voxutjj zas xhmd stsvad gpm nno kltod